This was fun to read with my high schooler for food chemistry class since his sense of humor is woven throughout the technical information. There are some recipes through the book that help to illustrate what he’s discussing and the kids did make some of them.
P. 8: Here’s a quick overview of what goes on at the sugar mill, usually located near the cane fields, and the sugar refinery, which may be located some distance away.
Sugar cane grows in tropical regions as tall, bamboo-like stocks about an inch thick and up to ten feet tall, just right for being chopped down with a machete. At the mill, the cut cane is shredded and pressed by machines. The pressed-out juice is clarified by adding lime, and allowing the juice to settle, and then boiled down in a partial vacuum (which lowers its boiling temperature) until it thickens into a syrup, colored brown by concentrated impurities. As the water evaporates, the sugar becomes so concentrated that the liquid can’t hold it anymore; the sugar turns into solid crystals. The wet crystals are then spun in a centrifuge, a perforated drum similar to the drum in your washing machine that fills water out of your laundry during the spin cycle. The therapy liquid – the molasses – is flung out, leaving wet, brown sugar, containing an assortment of yeast, molds, bacteria, soil, fiber, and other miscellaneous plant and insect debris. That’s the real “raw sugar.” The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) declares it to be unfit for human consumption.
The raw sugar is then shipped to a refinery, where it is purified by washing, re-dissolving, boiling to re-crystallize it, and centrifuging twice more, making the sugar progressively pure and leaving behind progressively more concentrated molasses, whose dark color and intense flavor are due to all the non-sugar components – sometimes it’s called the “ash“ – in the cane juice.
P. 10: when we eat the more “healthful,” browner sugars, we’re eating just as much sucrose along with the molasses residues.
P. 13: My brown sugar has turned into a rock. What can I do to soften it?
… but first, what makes brown sugar turn hard in the first place? Loss of moisture.
…. Just seal the sugar in a tight container overnight, along with something that gives off water vapor. People have recommended everything from a slice of apple, potato, or fresh bread to a damp towel or, for no nonsense types, a cup of water. The most effective set up is probably to put the sugar in a tight-lidded container, cover it with a sheet of plastic wrap, place a damp towel on top of the plastic wrap, and seal it all up.
P. 16: Refineries don’t have to label their sugar as cane or beet, so you may be using beef sugar without knowing it. If it doesn’t say ”Pure Cane Sugar” on the package, it’s probably beet.
P. 23: The word caramelize is used for the browning of a variety of foods, but strictly speaking, caramelizing means the heat – induced browning of a food that contains sugars, but no proteins.
P. 39: The word salt doesn’t describe a single substance. In chemistry, it is a generic term for a whole family of chemicals (Techspeak: A salt is the product of reaction between an acid and a base….
P. 45: The medical uncertainties haven’t stopped our vast national food mill from grinding out fear-of-sodium products. Salt substitutes are usually potassium chloride, a chemical fraternal twin of sodium chloride. It taste salty, but with a different kind of saltiness. Both are members of a large chemical family called salt; we call sodium chloride “salt” as if it were the only one because it’s by far the most common. But you can hear chemists laughing as they pass the supermarket shelf where NoSalt is sold; it is potassium chloride, and honest to God, chemical salt, but it’s labeled claims that it is “salt-free.” that’s only because FDA allows labels to use the word salt to mean sodium chloride and nothing else.
P. 49: food-grade salt is mined by pumping water down a shaft to dissolve salt, pumping the salt water (brine) up to the surface, settling out the impurities, and vacuum-evaporating the clear brine. That creates the familiar, tiny crystals of table salt in your salt shaker.
P. 54: Thus, it is the complex shapes of the crystals, not their nautical origin, that gives many sea salts their sensory properties. The reason that most sea salts have large, irregularly shaped crystals is that that’s what slow evaporation produces… The more rapidly crystals grow, the smaller they will be.
p. 56: Kosher salt …should be called koshering salt because it is used in the koshering process, which involves blanketing raw meat or poultry with salt to purify it.
Kosher salt may either be mined or taken from the sea; nobody seems to care. Its crystals, however, must always be coarse and irregular, so they will cling to the surface of the meat during koshering…besides the rabbinical supervision of its manufacture, its crystal size is the only distinction between kosher salt and other salts.
…some people believe that kosher salt contains less sodium than granulated table salt. That’s nonsense. They’re both virtually pure sodium chloride, and sodium chloride always contains 39.3 percent sodium. Gram for gram, every edible salt is precisely as salty as any other.
P. 97: baking soda releases carbon dioxide gas as soon as it comes in contact with any acidic liquid, such as buttermilk, sour cream, etc… baking powder, on the other hand, is baking soda with a dry acid already mixed in. It is used when a recipe contains no other acid ingredients. As soon as the powder gets wet, the two chemicals begin to dissolve and react with each other to produce carbon dioxide.
P. 98…why would a recipe call for both baking soda and baking powder? In this case, the cake or cookie is actually being leavened by the baking powder, which contains exactly the right proportions of bicarbonate and acid to react completely with each other. But if there happens to be an acid ingredient such as buttermilk present that would upset that balance, some extra bicarbonate in the form of baking soda is used to neutralize the excess acid.
P. 177: The first kitchen range, an enclosure containing a burn burning fuel (initially, coal) that he for cooking, was patented less than 375 years ago, Geraldine, the end of more than 1 million years of cooking over open fires. And the electric refrigerator replaced ice for cooling only within the memories of some of the readers of this book.
P. 179: Here’s an idea of how much heat a calorie is: a nutritional calorie is the amount of heat it would take to raise the temperature of a pint of water by 3.8°F.
Different foods, as everyone knows, provide us with different amounts of food energy. Originally, the calorie contents of foods were measured by actually burning them in an oxygen-filled container immersed in water and measuring how much the water‘s temperature went up. (The apparatus is called a calorimeter.) You could do the same thing with a serving of apple pie to find out how many calories it releases.
But is the amount of energy released when a slice of pie is burned in oxygen the same as the amount of energy released when it is metabolized in the body? Remarkably, it is, even though the mechanisms are quite different. Metabolism releases its energy much more slowly than combustion does, and mercifully without flames. (Heartburn doesn’t count.) The overall chemical reaction is exactly the same, however: Food plus oxygen produces energy plus various reaction products. And it’s a basic principle of chemistry that if the initial and final substances are the same, then the amount of energy given off is the same, regardless of how the reaction took place. The only practical difference is that foods aren’t digested or burned completely in the body, so we actually get out of them somewhat less than the total amount of energy they would release by being burned in oxygen.