As much as you would let it, Port William will trouble your heart.
It was my first visit to this small hamlet in the heartland of Kentucky and, as promised, the place was both enchanting and disturbing. Wendell Berry has been writing about this fictional backwater for more than forty years, so it’s not really surprising to discover how much the place and its people mean to him. The real treat for me was in how well the artist can communicate his passion for the small rural community and for its disappearing way of life. The elegance of the phrasing and the sharpness of the critical observations about the factors that led to the decline of the farming lifestyle require a special sort of narrator, one that has both feet anchored firmly in tradition but also a clear head to ponder the fundamental questions. Since a farmer usually does backbreaking work each and every day, somebody more suited to the contemplative life is needed, somebody with a lot of free time, good at socializing and passionate about words, spoken or written. This is Jonah (‘Jayber’) Crow, the celibate barber of Port William.
I don’t mean for you to believe that even barbers ever know the whole story. But it’s a fact that knowledge comes to barbers, just as stray cats come to milking barns. If you are a barber and you stay in one place long enough, eventually you will know the outlines of a lot of stories, and you will see how the bits and pieces of knowledge fit in. Anything you know about, there is a fair chance you will sooner or later know more about.
Jayber Crow has been set adrift more than once by Fate. Born in a small place on the Kentucky River called Goforth, he looses both his parents as a small child, then moves with elderly relatives to another place by the river, in Squires Landing, where he helps around the farm and listens avidly to the stories told by family, neighbours and visitors. Pretty soon, his aunt and uncle both die, so Jonah is sent to an orphanage, The Good Shepherd, where his only escape is in books and in solitary walks through the woods. Afterwards, the young man tries to find some answers about life in the seminary at Pigeonville College, but finds out that religious education is too similar to indoctrination and raises more questions than it answers. On the road again, Jonah tries to make some money tending horses and cutting hair, while engaged in college studies in literature in Lexington.
Back in a corner between a bookcase and one of the east windows, there was a small table where I liked to sit and read. It was one of the best places in the world to be on a rainy Sunday afternoon in winter. And I like to remember sitting there on a bright Saturday morning in the spring, with the window open and the sun shining in and the spirea bushes in bloom outside.
While the joy of reading will stay with him for a lifetime, the young man sinks into a crippling depression about his future, a misfit who cannot find his place in this busy, over-achieving, often ruthless rat race.
I was a lost traveller wandering in the woods, needing to be on my way somewhere but not knowing where. [...]
My solitariness turned into loneliness.
Even after he rejected the offer of the organized religion and its insistence on dogma and conformity, the young man still feels the need to grasp a spiritual direction for his life, a way to define himself in the context of a world that is still struggling with the aftermath of the Great Depression. An act of kindness from a stranger, who happened to come from a town near his birthplace named Port William, finally decides J. to abandon ambition and career opportunities in order to go back to his roots.
I have known no sudden revelations. No stroke of light has ever knocked me blind to the ground. But I know now that even then, in my hopelessness and sorrow, I began a motion of the heart toward my origin. Far from rising above them, I was longing to sink into them until I would know the fundamental things. I needed to know the original first chapter of the world. I had no past that I could go back to and no future that I could imagine, no family, no friends, and no plans. I was as free as a falling stone or a floating chip – freer, for I had no direction at all.
... and a river runs through it!
Such powerful metaphors for life, for inner struggle and for spiritual awakening: the journey back home coincides with a devastating winter storm that sends the wild waters of the rivers overflowing, the people adrift in the cold and the mind reeling under the majestic and destructive might of the elements.
And once again, the kindness of a stranger points the true way forward: a man fishing in a boat offers to help the young man cross the turbulent Kentucky River, and even points to the recently vacant position of barber in town. Jonah, who became known as J. in the orphanage and college, is now nicknamed ‘Jayber’ by the old hands in town as he is accepted into the community. He will live here for the next sixty years of his life, never a rich man, but one finally at peace with himself.
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Port William repaid watching. I was always on the lookout for what would be revealed. Sometimes nothing would be, but sometimes I beheld astonishing sights.
There’s merit in the notion of setting down roots and letting the world come to you. It may sound more like an Oriental ashram for meditation than the embodiment of the American Dream of clawing your way to the top by any means, but the passive Jayber witnesses from the front porch of his barbershop life passing by in all its glory: children run home from school, wives go shopping and gossip on street corners, busy farmers on the way to their fields, loafers come to his shop to pass the time and remember the past. The seasons follow one another in their ancient rhythm, the river is a constant reminder of the passage of time, and the barber sees the small children grow up, go to war, get old and sick and die, to be replaced by a new generation doing the same old things as their forefathers.
I can see how we grow up like crops of wheat and are harvested and carried away.
Jayber Crow comes to Port William in 1932, a time when the land was still worked with teams of oxen or donkeys, when the farm was supposed to produce everything the family needed and when people lived their whole lives without travelling more than ten miles from the place they were born. All this would change, and not for the better, in his lifetime. Jayber Crow becomes, against his will, just like he was labelled a bachelor because of poverty plus an early indiscretion, a chronicler of the destruction of what Port William stood for.
In war, as maybe even in politics, Port William has to suffer what it didn’t make. I have pondered for years and I still can’t connect Port William and war except by death and suffering.
Seeing them come and go, and come and stay, I began to be moved by a compassion that seemed to come to me from outside. I never said to myself that it was happening. It just came to me, or I came to it. As I buried the dead and walked among them, I wanted to make my heart as big as Heaven to include them all and love them and not be distracted. I couldn’t do it, of course, but I wanted to.
Because the town is very small, Jayber barely makes enough money to survive with his scissors and comb. That’s another reason to be considered unsuitable for marriage by the local matrons, beside his hanging out with the most disreputable drinkers in town. A lovingly tended garden takes care of his pantry, and books take care of his loneliness, but Jayber takes on also the job of burying the dead and of helping clean and arrange the church for service.
Both activities complement his contemplative meditation about the fundamental questions. Port William, with its connection to the land and to the river, has this quality of continuity and relevance that he seeks both in the books he reads alone and in the stories he collects from his customers and neighbours. Jayber gains this over-arching quality of vision, of synthesis, that passerbies are liable to ignore, concerned as they are with the hardships of farming or with how quickly they can escape from this backwater. The young clergy who are send to preach in the local church and who never stay long there, are a prime example of this modern shallowness.
What they didn’t see was that it was beautiful, and that some of the greatest beauties are the briefest. They had imagined the church, which is an organization, but not the world, which is an order and a mystery.
The longer he stays in place, the more Jayber Crow is convinced he made the right decision to give up ambition and personal wealth and search instead for the spiritual life.
I felt older. I felt that I had seen ages of the world come and go. Now, finally, I really had lost all desire for change, every last twinge of the notion that I ought to get somewhere or make something of myself. I was what I was. “I will stand like a tree,” I thought, “and be in myself as I am.” And the things of Port William seemed to stand around me, in themselves as they were.
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Port William is an island, set in its immemorial ways and reluctant to change. The modern world is knocking at the door, trying to get in and rearrange things according to its own set of values. The comparison with Guernsey, as I have come to know it through the eyes of Ebenezer le Page, came to me late – mostly as I prepared the notes for my review – yet the more I think about it, the more similarities I find.
A good part of the second half of the novel, the years after World War II, is dedicated to the industrial revolution in farming: both the new machinery that allows for greater productivity and the greed that puts profits above conservation.
In Port William, this development is illustrated by the fortunes of the Keith family, owners of one of the largest farms in the country. Their daughter Molly marries a young, ambitious man named Troy Chatham and sets in motion a decline of almost biblical proportions.
Old farmers like Athey Keith, who understood or at least felt what was happening and what it would cost, were ignored, laughed off by young farmers like Troy Chatham.
This was a conserving principle; it strictly limited both the amount of land that would be plowed and the amount of supplies that would have to be bought.
I was not surprised when, on finishing the novel, I found out that the author is a vocal and highly respected conservationist. His observations about the changes coming to Port William and their effect on the community at large, read like academic, well-grounded essays, and are made so much more powerful by the stories of the people affected by the march of progress at any cost.
You may say that I am just another outdated old man complaining about progress and the changes of time. But, you see, I have well considered that possibility myself, and am prepared to submit to correction by anybody who cares about a community, who can show me how the world is improved by that community’s dying.
It is not only the farming for profit that leads to decline. Several other factors are included in the narrative, among them popular culture, bureaucracy, tourism and cost cutting of social programs.
Television had come. Instead of sitting out and talking from porch to porch on the summer evenings, the people sat inside in rooms filled with the flickering blue light of the greater world.
Having no children of my own, I may have no right to an opinion, but I know that closing the school just knocked the breath out of the community. It did worse than that. It gave the community a never-healing wound.
I watch and I wonder and I think. I think of the old slavery, and of the way The Economy has now improved upon it. The new slavery has improved upon the old by giving the new slaves the illusion that they are free. The Economy does not take people’s freedom by force, which would be against its principles, for it is very humane. It buys their freedom, pays for it, and then persuades its money back again with shoddy goods and the promise of freedom. “Buy a car,” it says, “and be free. Buy a boat and be free. Buy a beer and be free.” Is this not the raw material of bad dreams? Or is it maybe the very nightmare itself?
Old farmers die and a replaced by young people who believe in credit spending. Young people are in a hurry to leave the place and live somewhere else. Small businesses close and nothing new comes to replace them. The highway and the big shops take away the last money that could be made locally. Even Jayber, a frugal man at the best of times, finds himself forced to abandon the barber shop in his old age, as he has to bury more and more of his old friends.
But the mercy of the world is time. Time does not stop for love, but it does not stop for death and grief, either. After death and grief that (it seems) ought to have stopped the world, the world goes on. More things happen. And some of the things that happen are good.
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Fortunately, the novel doesn’t end with the death throes of the small community of farmers. Again, like Ebenezer le Page, Jayber Crow finds within himself the strength to come to terms with the world and with its inherent cruelty. He sets down roots once again, in an even more isolated place, but his few remaining friends follow him there, and the grace of simple living in the middle of the enduring beauty of nature allows him to find an inner peace and an answer to those fundamental questions he has chased since his school days.
Sometimes, living right beside it, I forget it. Going about my various tasks, I don’t think about it. And then it seems just to flow back into my mind. I stop and look at it. I think of its parallel, never-meeting banks, which yet never part. I think of it lying there in its long hollow, at the foot of all the landscape, a single opening from its springs in the mountains all the way to its mouth. It’s a beautiful thought, one of the most beautiful of all thoughts. I think it not in my brain only but in my heart and in all the lengths of my bones.
What is that simple answer that needs a lifetime to find? Jayber Crow has rejected church, but he has returned to the Bible in a sort of personal Revelation that bothers me less than the way other writers try to push forward their own brand of Christianity. I feel I can have a stimulating and civil conversation with Jayber/Wendell Berry and I believe we will find there a lot to agree on.
I try not to let good things go by unnoticed. is a good motto to live by.
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Port William is a rich , rewarding world to visit and I know I will eventually want to come back and learn more of its stories. Comparisons with William Faulkner have been already made, and a mention of Norman Maclean (“A River Runs Through It”) and G B Edwards seem appropriate. For readers who love this sort of novel I would add Tarjei Vesaas, a Norwegian poet-farmer, who has a similar sensibility for the land and for the fundamental questions. My own verdict regarding the life of Jayber Crow is ‘good’.
I am a man who has hoped, in time, that his life, when poured out at the end, would say, “Good-good-good-good-good! like a gallon jug of the prime local spirit. I am a man of losses, regrets, and griefs. I am an old man full of love. I am a man of faith.
I wish I had more space and more time to discuss the most beautiful (and probably controversial) part of the story: Jayber Crow loves a woman his whole life, from a distance, hopelessly yet faithfully, beyond the limits of time. I want this to be the last image I will keep from the novel:
It was a winter afternoon and the snow was falling without wind, straight down. The snow was gathering like blossoms on the green leaves of the cane. In the woods beyond us, we could hear woodpeckers calling. We had not said much. We were standing as still as the trees. The only thing we saw that was moving was the snow.
I said, “It’s like time falling, and we and the trees are standing up in it.”
“No,” she said. “Look. It’s like we and the woods and the world are flying upward through the snow. See?”